DSAE Day 14: All the World's a Stage. THIS IS THAT STAGE.

First thing I've done that I've done before -- riding Eurostar from Paris to London. We were 45 minutes late because somebody got sick & had to be taken off the train, so if I'd left 30 minutes later I would arrived 15 minutes sooner, I guess. Finally, back in a country whose language I am no worse at than I was 20 years ago! Well, a little worse. Though for some reason the very nice hotel still only has WiFi in the lobby. No pictures again, thanks, Holiday Inn Express! But the hotel is perfectly located for the weekend's activities, just a short walk to the riverfront, a right turn to Shakespeare's Globe, a left turn to the South Bank Centre.

Tonight, the Tempest at the reconstructed Globe. I've been to London several times since the theatre was finished, but only in Winter, so this was my first opportunity to see a show here. And sold out! I had the seat farthest on the circle, second level, so I saw a lot of actor butt. It is a great theater, wonderful acoustics; if I get to come back someday I will brave the standing room "groundling" section. I say that but I like sitting down.

Show was superb, unsurprisingly; they even found the comic rhythm for Act 1 Scene 2, which can be awfully dry, and the masque in 4.1 actually got vigorous applause. Alas, the Clump'o'Nobles in 2.1 couldn't be brought to life, but I've seen billions of Tempests and I've never seen that scene work, so okay.

I should admit that I panicked and thought I was late, and ran to get to the theatre, only to find I was an hour ahead of time; still on France time apparently. I took the extra time to walk across the Millenium Bridge, which gives you a nifty mid-river view of Tower Bridge, and doesn't trigger my acrophobia at all.

Which doesn't mean I'll agree to ride the London Eye. But that's tomorrow.

DSAE Day 15: The Swedish Cafe wouldn't have offered such entertainment

Phase III has begun! I rendezvoused with hantsbear at the Victoria Station -- the Bus Arrivals station, mind you, since there seem to be about 15 different Victoria Stations -- and then went looking for food. (BTW Steve wants to tell you a story about the bus driver, but you'll have to wait for him to post it to his own blog.) "I know a wonderful Swedish cafe," sez Steve, "we can have a great lunch there. It's got a sign in the door saying CLOSED ON JUNE 2 -- WILL REOPEN JUNE 3. "How about a wonderful Vietnamese noodle place?" sez Steve, and we'd walked by it a minute earlier -- but when we got back the door was locked and the sign was flipped to say CLOSED SUNDAYS. Ah, but third time's a charm! We got to a street that was lined with open restaurants, and easily chose a charming French cafe with an attractive prix fixe menu.

Minutes after we ordered, smoke from a piece of toast in the kitchen set off the fire alarm. It took the hostess 20 minutes to turn it off. Every other customer left. We were the only customers remaining. We recommend this technique if you wish to get attentive service from French waiters. Oh, and the food was really good.

Our main even today was the Chelsea Opera Group's concert performance of Verdi's early and unloved Alzira. We had a few hours before the show, so Steve suggested we try the Nestene Conciousness London Eye, the giant Ferris wheel with glass globules. I was actually willing, but the line was hours long, so we didn't have time. [weeps softly] The concert was great, actually -- I was worried Steve might be bored, but I forget that even second-tier Verdi has a propulsive energy that is great fun, even if the plot never gets beyond an inane tenor/soprano/baritone triangle dressed up in Inca & Conquistador drag. Tonight's Inez was named Zuma.

We're back at the hotel, same one I was at on my own last night (coincidence!), and in the lobby, since there's no WiFi in the rooms. Seriously, Holiday Inn Express, is this the middle ages? Then off on rail & bus to Coalville, where our new adventures will begin.