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Tonight, I Lombardi, the last of the 3 early Verdis being presented by Hamburg Opera. I think I get the overarching theme of the productions now; this is supposed to be in the ruins of a bombed-out La Scala in Milan, our plucky performers playing not characters in an opera but 1940s performers playing characters in an opera being put on in defiance of all odds etc. etc. etc. Thus the choirloft/elevator thingy, the front of which is styled to look like the La Scala boxes, and random ruins scattered about in front of the back wall. That you have the added advantage of cutting down on prep time for the chorus, in works that will NOT join the standard rotation, a mere coincidency bonus.
Actually, this production was far and away the best of the three, largely because (after the first few scenes) the choristers escaped from their elevated jail and made their way to the main stage, which is good since the chorus is a huge part of the piece, mostly as bloodthirsty crusaders. Plus we had some real color to break up the gray, with red and blue in the costumes and a big white sand dune for the second half.
But most of all we had Elza Van den Heever in the female lead, who completely dominated the show. Didn't hurt that she's about 2 feet taller than any of the men in the cast.
And I did get to the waterfront today, as advised, to find it completely socked in, so foggy a boat ride would be pointless. Instead I went to a great show at the Bucierus Kunst Forum, which I'd apparently walked right in front of yesterday without noticing -- a show about Dionysus, lots of great ancient & modern paintings & artifacts. The ticket girl loved my passport photo.
Last night in Hamburg -- off to Cologne tomorrow. I will probably tour the Dom there (their huge church) but mostly rest & work on memorizing the damn lines for the damn play I damn well agreed to do. Wish me luck on that.